A Quick Guide to the IWC 150th Anniversary Jubilee Collection

Posted by & filed under , .

swiss watches

IWC has partnered with the Laureus Sport for Good Foundation for the 12th time to release the IWC Pilots Watch Mark XVIII Edition Laureus Sport for Good Foundation watch.

Announced during the 2018 Laureus World Sports Awards in Monaco, the limited edition series of 1,500 pieces features a black porcelain case using the signature Laureus edition blue sunburst dial. Theres been an IWC watch done for Laureus (a sports-charity company devoted to helping disadvantaged kids around the globe) and this is the follow up to last years Da Vinci Chronograph edition.This variant shares the same dimensions as the standard Mark XVIII, a 41mm case at a height of 11mm, with a lug-to-lug of 51mm. Ticking inside the Mark XVIII is your IWC Caliber 35111, a automated motion based on the Sellita SW300-1, and in true pilots watch style, the motion is covered with a iron inner case to protect it from magnetism. Continuing their attempts to utilize ceramic in their cases, and following the trend towards ceramic in Switzerland, IWC has chosen to incorporate a black ceramic case with this special edition, developing a jet-black look which makes it possible for the blue dial to stick out from the ceramic.Conflicting with this jet-black look, however, is your ceramic crown, which isn’t color-matched or DLC-coated, and disrupts the dark kind of this watch. I’d have liked to have seen IWC create more of an attempt to combine the crown with the case, instead of leaving it as is. Flanking the titanium caseback is an engraving submitted to IWC as a portion of its annual drawing competition they host together with the Laureus Sport for Good Foundation, and is themed as the time to be healthy, pun definitely intended. The watch will even come on an embossed calfskin leather strap, in black of course.

The last time IWC celebrated an anniversary was in 1993 it did so with a fairly compact collection, essentially the Il Destriero Scafusia uber-complication and the Portugieser Jubilee trio.

Twenty five years on IWC’s revenue is perhaps 25 times larger than it was in 1993, and the 150th anniversary line-up is correspondingly larger. The full range will be unveiled at SIHH 2018 in just over a month’s time, in the meantime IWC has taken the covers off five watches, including the best of the lot, the Tribute to Pallweber Edition “150 Years”.

The modern day Pallweber in red gold

Made up of 27 models, the 150th Anniversary Jubilee Collection has something for every taste and budget – the simplest model will start under US$5000. It includes variants of watches from all of IWC’s bestselling model lines – Portugieser, Portofino, Pilot’s Watches and Da Vinci. If you know which are IWC’s most popular models, chances are you’ll know what’ll make its debut in anniversary livery.

While the offerings are diverse, all are united by several common details. The most obvious are the dials, which will either be white or deep blue glossy lacquer, meant to evoke the look of fired enamel. And the other is an anniversary medallion inlaid on the back or movement.

IWC 150th anniversary collection 2018


The top of the line anniversary watch is the Portugieser Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “150 Years” in red gold (ref. IW590202). Based on a model already in the catalogue, this boasts a tourbillon with integrated constant force mechanism, as well as a power reserve display and moon phase. And it’s third IWC wristwatch to feature a silicon pallet fork and escape wheel, after the Da Vinci Tourbillon Retrograde Chronograph and Portofino Hand-Wound Tourbillon.

IWC Portugieser Constant-Force Tourbillon 150 Years white 1

The constant force mechanism is unusual: the tourbillon cage moves in one-seconds steps for the first 48 hours of the 96-hour power reserve (which is four days), after while it rotates like a conventional tourbillon. That’s a consequence of the constant force mechanism, centred on a small spring that is wound up and released every second. After the first 48 hours of power reserve the torque from the barrel is insufficient for the constant force mechanism to work optimally, hence its automatic disengagement.

IWC Portugieser Constant-Force Tourbillon 150 Years white 4

The cal. 94805 with the anniversary medallion on the barrel bridge

Notably, the moon phase display is especially accurate, varying by only a day after 577.5 years, as opposed to the 122.5 years of the typical moon phase.

IWC Portugieser Constant-Force Tourbillon 150 Years white 2

This is in platinum and 45mm in diameter, and limited to 15 watches with a white lacquer dial. It will also be available in blue. They will be priced at approximately SFr255,000 and reach stores in April 2018.


One step down the price chart is the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Edition “150 Years” (ref. IW504501). Available only in red gold with a white dial, it’s a limited edition of 50 pieces powered by a newly developed movement, the cal. 51950.

IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon 150 Years 1

IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon 150 Years 4

The movement is based on the original IWC seven-day automatic, the cals. 5000, 5001 and 5011 (and not the second generation cal. 52000). It’s essentially the automatic base calibre with the addition of a flying tourbillon at 12 o’clock, made possible by the fact that IWC first developed a small tourbillon for the Il Destriero Scafusia of 1993, as the tourbillon regulator had to be retrofitted to a Valjoux 7750 base.

IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon 150 Years 3

Because the movement also has a perpetual calendar module on top, the tourbillon sits relatively deep inside the porthole at noon.

IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon 150 Years 2

The case is 45mm in diameter, and the price is expected to be SFr110,000, with delivery starting April 2018.


The Da Vinci Automatic Edition “150 Years” in steel with a blue dial (ref. IW358102) will be the most affordable anniversary men’s watch with an in-house movement – there will be models equipped with outsourced calibres – priced at just SFr9900. Despite being more affordable, it is distinguished by the fact that it’s one of the few anniversary watches powered by a brand new movement, the cal. 82200.

IWC Da Vinci Automatic 150 Years blue 1

Conceived to be the mid-range in-house movement that’s small enough to fit in watch cases under 40mm in diameter, while being able to accommodate other complications. The cal. 82200 has a single barrel, 60-hour power reserve, as well as IWC’s proprietary Pellaton winding mechanism with the winding pawls and gear in wear-resistant black ceramic. Expect to see more of this movement in future IWC watches.

IWC Da Vinci Automatic 150 Years blue 2

IWC Da Vinci Automatic 150 Years blue 3

The Da Vinci is 40.4mm in diameter and stainless steel, matched with a blue lacquered dial. It’ll be limited to 500 pieces. A white lacquered model, as well as one in 18k red gold will also be available.


While the 150th Anniversary Jubilee Collection is predominantly men’s watches, it includes two watches for ladies. One is the Da Vinci Automatic Moon Phase 36 Edition “150 Years” in 18k red gold (ref. IW459304).

IWC Da Vinci Automatic Moon Phase 36 150 Years diamonds

This is a 36mm automatic, covered in 206 brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel and lugs. It features a moon phase display at noon, and is powered by the cal. 35800, which is actually a Sellita SW300. It’s limited to 50 watches in red gold, priced at SFr31,000. Another variant of this model will be white gold.


The rest of the collection will be revealed on Monday, January 15, 2018, as soon as SIHH 2018 opens its door. Stayed tuned for more.


 

 

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *